My personal suspicion is there was an undergown, but that the white part and the brustfleck are not part of it. This is bourne out by a number of images showing women partly dressed. yay for Cranach and his need to paint half naked women. Few other German masters did at this stage;) http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/cranach.htm SHould take you to my page with the Lucretia's sorted out so you can see the brustfleck and white panel pulled away from the body. Of course the chemise is either missing or has a super deep neckline;) or he's ommitted underlayers. My personal theory is the latter. And that there is possibly another layer of clothing he's ommitting too.
Think of all the larger busted ladies who followed the German fashion. How many could seriously be held up by just a band. A decorative band at that that you wouldn't want ruined, and would want to be able to be removed to not get washed. It's quite likely that they were pinned in. Personally I think pinned to the underdress as well as gown as that gives great stability to the neckline.
The white part is also different in different paintings: sometimes absolutely smooth, sometimes finely gathered looking, sometines solidly ridged looking, sometimes a different colour, sometimes a combination!
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timeasmymeasure
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Date: 2004-05-27 10:31 am (UTC)My personal suspicion is there was an undergown, but that the white part and the brustfleck are not part of it. This is bourne out by a number of images showing women partly dressed. yay for Cranach and his need to paint half naked women. Few other German masters did at this stage;)
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/cranach.htm SHould take you to my page with the Lucretia's sorted out so you can see the brustfleck and white panel pulled away from the body. Of course the chemise is either missing or has a super deep neckline;) or he's ommitted underlayers. My personal theory is the latter. And that there is possibly another layer of clothing he's ommitting too.
Think of all the larger busted ladies who followed the German fashion. How many could seriously be held up by just a band. A decorative band at that that you wouldn't want ruined, and would want to be able to be removed to not get washed. It's quite likely that they were pinned in. Personally I think pinned to the underdress as well as gown as that gives great stability to the neckline.
The white part is also different in different paintings: sometimes absolutely smooth, sometimes finely gathered looking, sometines solidly ridged looking, sometimes a different colour, sometimes a combination!
As for construction, you can't go past:
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/mary
There is a link to a site that contains a diagram layout for the dress. It's what I used for my yellow 1520s gown:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/1520.htm
You might find it easier if your undergown laces at the side. To get into and out of, as well as be rather authentic to the period.